If you’re looking for a safe ingredient with decades of established research proving its effectiveness, look no further than vitamin A. Vitamin A is involved in immune function, vision, reproduction, and cell communication. It is important to cell production and growth.
Topical application of vitamin A stimulates fibroblasts — the cells responsible for developing tissue that keeps skin firm and healthy.
The use of retinoid substances in therapy is nothing new. Over 3000 years ago, ancient Egyptians used liver (where 50–85% of the total body retinol is stored) to treat endemic night blindness
In recent history,the importance of vitamin A was discovered during World War I where research showed that a deficiency in it gave rise to abnormally dry skin and excessive development of keratin in hair follicles. .
The retinoid family comprises vitamin A (retinol) and its natural derivatives such as retinaldehyde, retinoic acid, and retinyl esters (ie: retinyl palmitate).
Retinoic Acid is the active form of vitamin A. Due to its strength, direct mechanism of action and side effects which include severe dryness and irritation, it is prescription only.
Retinol is the alcohol form of vitamin A. In order for it to become the active form of vitamin A, it needs to first convert to retinoic acid. This conversion happens once it is absorbed in to the skin. It is slightly less irritating than retinoic acid due to the extra step that it has to take to convert to the active form of vitamin A.
Retinyl Palmitate is the storage form of vitamin A. Like retinol, it needs to convert to retinoic acid before becoming active. Due to this, it is a much milder, more stable and far less irritating form of Vitamin A and is suitable for most skin types. After its absorption into the skin, retinyl palmitate is converted to retinol, and ultimately to retinoic acid.
Vitamin A is important to cell production and growth. It stimulates fibroblasts — the cells responsible for developing tissue that keeps skin firm and healthy—in the deep layers of your skin.
Research shows that topical application of retinoids can:
- Improve visible signs of sun damage
- Smooth fine lines and wrinkles and under eye circles
- Restores an even skin tone
- Reduces appearance of hyper-pigmentation
- Smooth rough and flaky skin
- Help to visibly increase the appearance of firmness
How do you get the best out of your retinoid product?
Make sure that your retinoid is packaged in an opaque, airtight container and that you use it at night, as exposure to heat, light and air can cause your product to become inactive.
Retinoids can cause your skin to be dry and irritated. For this reason, you should gradually condition your skin to it. Start by using it every 2-3 nights, and use nightly once your skin is accustomed to it.
It is best to increase the strength of the retinol concentration gradually over time. This allows skin cells time to develop more vitamin A receptors, which allows for more uptake of Retinol (the receptors are also depleted by UV).
Be patient and be consistent. It can take up to 12 weeks of consistent use of a retinoid product before you see results.
Pregnancy
Some studies have shown that high doses of vitamin A during pregnancy can be harmful to an unborn child. Oral retinoids, such as isotretinoin (Accutane, an acne treatment), are known to cause birth defects. Although retinoids have not been shown to cause problems in their topical form in pregnant women, and there is no data to show that they are harmful when used on the skin, it’s probably best (for your peace of mind at least) to avoid using them during pregnancy.