To understand what happens to our skin as it ages, it is important to understand the anatomy of our skin.
Our skin is composed of three layers: The epidermis is the outermost layer of skin, it provides a waterproof barrier and creates our skin tone.The dermis, sits beneath the epidermis. It contains tough connective tissue, hair follicles, and sweat glands. The lowermost layer, the hypodermis, (also called subcutaneous tissue) is made of fat and connective tissue.
Two main factors contribute to aging skin. The first, Chronological aging (also known as instrinsic aging), is how your skin ages with the passage of time. Your genes determine the rate at which this occurs.
With chronological aging, the dermis degenerates due to the loss of collagen, degeneration in the elastic fiber network, and loss of hydration. The dermis can lose from 20-80% of its thickness during the aging process as result of changes in the fibroblasts (the cells responsible for collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycan (GAG) biosynthesis).
These changes cause skin to become wrinkly, saggy and slack, dry, thinner, rough, red (due to dilated capillaries) and less firm.
The second, Photo aging (also known as extrinsic aging) is caused by external influences – the biggest of which is over-exposure to the sun’s UV rays. According to one study, UV exposure seems to be responsible for 80% of visible facial aging signs.
Signs of facial aging caused by over exposure to UV Rays include:
- Dry skin
- Excessive wrinkling. This can manifest as deep creases around the mouth, forehead and frown lines and <
is usually seen only in people who have been exposed to the sun. - Spider veins on the nose, cheeks, and neck
- Dark spots and uneven skin colour.
- Loss of skin tone in sun exposed areas
- Taut lips that start to lose some colour and fullness
- Leathery texture to skin
Perhaps the most controllable extrinsic age factor is smoking. Smoking causes chemical changes in the human body that accelerate the aging process. Tobacco smoke causes oxidative stress. This means that insufficient oxygen is supplied to the skin resulting in tissue ischemia (a restriction in blood supply to tissues) and blood vessel occlusion (blockage of blood flow through arteries or veins). Smoking also induces an enzyme (metallo-proteinase MMP-1) that specifically degrades collagen.
Commonly used expressions, sleeping positions and good old gravity, can also make an impact on how skin ages.
While there’s no magical cream that will make your skin look like it did when you were 18, there are things that you can do to slow the progression of extrinsic aging and improve your skin aesthetics.
Use Sun Protection
Wearing sunscreen (SPF15 or higher) daily is proven to prevent photoaging. Reducing your exposure to UV radiation will also lower your risk of developing skin cancers and precancers.
Stop smoking.
Smoking causes discoloration of the skin and premature development of facial wrinkles. When you quit, carbon monoxide is no longer intruding on the way of blood and oxygen flow to your skin. This means that collagen production will be back to normal levels and your skin will start to look healthier.
Hydrate your skin
As we age, changes in the skin’s connective tissue reduce it elasticity and tone, causing aging skin to look thin and loose. The appearance of thin, loose skin can be enhanced by dehydration in the Stratum Corneum (the outermost layer of the epidermis).
Use a moisturiser with active ingredients that are effective at absorbing water and reducing transepidermal water loss, as these will increase the moisture content of your skin. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Sodium Hyaluronate and Bisabolol (German Chamomile) are all highly effective moisturising agents.
Use a topical retinoid
Retinoids are derivatives of Vitamin A. Topical retinoids have decades of research behind them, proving their effectiveness at reducing visible signs of aging. In studies they have been shown to do everything from smoothing fine lines, to fading dark spots to reducing the appearance of enlarged pores.
Retinoids are capable not only of repairing photoaged skin at both the clinical and biochemical levels but their use may prevent photoaging.